Day 22 – Hospital Óbrigo to Rabanal del Camino

I dug up this fascinating quotation from Nikola Telsa, genius, polymath, eugenics-proponent, close friend of Mark Twain and Stanford White, originator of 300+ patents and after whom Elon Musk’s electric car is named:

“To me, the universe is simply a great machine which never came into being and never will end” and “what we call ‘soul’ or ‘spirit,’ is nothing more than the sum of the functioning of the body. When this functioning ceases, the ‘soul’ or the ‘spirit’ ceases likewise”.

Profound for a man who never graduated university.

Anyway, I digress.

We’re all waddling. I meant to say this before. Long ago. It’s sort of a rite of passage. Waddling.

After a hike, everyone waddles as if they’ve been mercilessly fisted by Freddie Mercury, with a warm-down and stretch from Gary Glitter. Feet are sore. Heels are very sensitive. Legs don’t quite work. Hip flexors and joints ache. Balance is off a bit. Doesn’t matter your age. It’s reflected in the awkward, halting momentum of one’s gait and the gentle, slow, deliberate placement of the feet. Everyone walks as if they’ve had a good fisting that they’ve not particularly enjoyed (err, ARE you actually supposed to enjoy it..?).

The waitstaff at the Albergue found this all tremendously entertaining. They were laughing at me (to my face, pointing) and asked me to remove my sunglasses so they could really see the look on my face as I padded tentatively around their small courtyard. They then laughed at my racing-stripes. Ha. Ha. So glad I can be the source of your amusement. Now why not make some decent food instead of this carb-loaded slop and pay for the Comedy Channel if you want something to laugh at!  

The bar staff then asked me to help hang and secure the banners for “Camino Celta” on 9 de Agosto (tomorrow), just to make the place look more festive and colorful. I was sitting in a corner, so there were multiple workstreams. Apparently, it was quite alright to stand barefoot on the tables that they don’t seem to clean but people will certainly eat off. Enjoy the residual, blister-pustulate and the flakes from my athlete’s foot, you low-rollers…

Back to business. This is about the Camino after all…

About 35km today, split into 15km, 9km and 11km segments and two 45+ minute stops along the way. Departure 0500. Arrival 1345. Not bad going as there were significant changes in elevation.

0500 is an excessively early start but there was a full moon, as I’ve tried to capture in some of the following photos.

Good as it is, the iPhone 7 doesn’t see or capture what they eye does.

I tried to walk as much as I could without Mr Petzl. It’s remarkable how light it is with a full moon. The natural light is quite lovely, and it does feel as if someone is watching over you. There’s supposed to be a meteor shower on the 13th. Those in the know suggest being underway by 0400. We’ll see. 0500 was plenty early.

“Those in the know” is Alex, in the singular, my dorm mate from yesterday. He’s 33, from Canada, a social worker employed as a Special Ed teacher in Toronto. Looks like Dave Grohl. Very engaging and likes basketball. He’s hiking with a French chap whose name I didn’t get. We had 3 people in a 4 bed dormitory last night. The dorm had a single shower and bathroom, but just fine for the numbers. No one snored. Great night’s sleep. No ear plugs (for me at least). I sidled off while they were still out cold. I had pre-planned my exit so I don’t think I disturbed them. Hoping to see them again here as I think this was also their intended destination. That way, I’ll find out if I snored…

Tonight, I’m in a large dormitory (20+) that only has two loos and two showers. I chose this place based on reviews and the fact that it is NOT one of the berths that had bedbugs. Maurice went to one of the other local Albergues here and suffered. I wont be around to see the slugfest that develops in the morning, but there are Spanish hikers and Italian cyclists, so no doubt some competition for odor as well as facilities. I have my tissues and lavender oil at the ready to combat odors. Tried, trusted and true.

Lastly, there’s some sort of Gregorian Chant ceremony at 1900. The Albergue went out of it’s way to advertise it. Then there’s a pilgrim blessing at 2130. On a Tuesday? I bought a Gregorian chant version of “Fade to Grey” in about 1999. It bored me shitless so I think that I’ve had my fill, but I may go along so long as I can sit near the exit and there’s no compunction to stay. Being able to smuggle in a snifter would be a distinct advantage.

I gather it’s monsoon season in London. Sorry to hear that.

Anyone had a word with Lord Dampnut about his theories on global warming? Sorry. He has no “theories”. He doesn’t have the faculties or the attention span to begin to try to process the concept.

There are parallels with the White House and compliance departments worldwide at investment banks. Over-paid, linear-thinkers with their heads planted well up their keisters, conditioned to a reflexive “NO” rather than to try and think through something more detailed, or heaven forbid, NEW. Thereafter, the thought-process hardens, like cement – slow, but irreversible. The individual resistance becomes an entrenched, departmental view because to change the view suggests fault – to which no one will admit, so sweep it under the carpet. Then it becomes the corporate “truth”. Yeah, like Gallifuckingleo and the Catholic Church. Better stop now. Sorry. Looking for my meds. Amazon drone-drop anyone??

Buen Camino.

Day 22 Photo Gallery