The forecast was for elevated temperatures so the plan was an early departure at 0540, and it was a good one. The change in temperature was palpable at 1000 and full force by noon. I arrived at about 1130. I checked into Albergue Capuchinos and sprung for a single room (no ensuite, no breakfast, no dinner, owned and run by the Vatican…) at €30. Showering and laundry done, I gingerly made my way back into the town for its medieval festival (not planned but how could I miss it?) Unfortunately it was as memorable as the Puerto Rican Day parade in NY, only much less populous (and no spitting, hissing, leering or slaughter of live animals on the street).
With street food everywhere, I order the local Cidre which was €5, cloudy and didn’t taste too much different to Bragg’s Apple Cider Vinegar. However, it was stronger and with 2 thick slices of charcoal-grilled, local Pancetta, it hit the spot. I shouldn’t pre-judge.
My legs benefited from yesterday’s “therapeé piscine municipale” though the shin splits continue to announce themselves with each step. Hopefully that subsides or I’ll be forced to make some painful analogy with marriage to adequately articulate the repetitive, unrelenting waves of discomfort…..
Much earlier in the day, my bladder burst. The one in my backpack, that is. It happened about 0700. I think it was also the cause of the damp inside of my pack that I’d experienced the last couple of days. I think I can get a replacement on Tuesday when I reach Logroño – but its 22km tomorrow followed by 28km on Tuesday to Logroño and 29km on Wednesday to Najera – so a particularly long couple of segments ahead. Adjusting for ascents/descents adds a couple of clicks to each leg. Hard work ahead with hot weather.
Today’s hike was uneventful but picturesque, starting with a headlamp for thefirst 45 minutes. Maurice had left his towel at a bar and I returned it to him today. I found a cellphone on the ground at the cafe where I breakfasted near the canal de Alloz and decided to hold onto it as the only people there were a group of brightly-dressed Italians, and I thought I’d find them. 
I did, and returned the phone only to receive the undying gratitude (apparently) of a very hairy Italian fellow wearing a blue Italian football jersey. It was a Huawai phone with a cracked screen. Maybe I should have done him a a favor and just adios’d it with the rest of the food garbage, but I didn’t.…. I’m hoping for good Karma as the segments get longer and the weather gets hotter.
I met Bill from Washington DC. This was his third Camino. He was pretty chilled and I thought he must be from California…… but he’d never been to California – which I thought peculiar. Raise your hand if you’ve not been to California! He’d spent an extended period in Mexico and bopped around teaching in NYC and was now about to start a job as a web-designer. Georgetown economics grad. Deep soul. Hope I see him again.
Apart from chatting with Bill, I spent most of the time on my own. I like the solitude and the focus of one leg after the other, although conversation is a welcome distraction towards the end of a segment when your legs are screaming at you. I may commit heresy and listen to some music over the next couple of days as a substitute. I’m not Catholic, so I can bend the rules. A bit. I hope.
Lastly, a broad observation: the difference between today and 2012 when I was last in Navarre is increased prosperity. You can see it in the people, in the way they hold themselves. Less put-upon, more pride. Cars are unpretentious but new(ish), not the bangers and beaters I saw 5 years ago. Restaurants seem busier. There’s a lot of nicely-done, new-build residential construction – modern with a traditional edge – I’m quite taken, I have to say. Note to Doris: we could live here. Snag another passport….?
That’s it for today. I’ve posted some photos but I’m conscious that this landscape looks much like today as yesterday, so keeping it to a minimum. Beautiful but the same. As I move westwards from Navarre to La Rioja, there will be some changes.
No rants today. It’s Sunday. Buen Camino.